A Guide to the Wines of Bordeaux with HL Marsay

The region of Bordeaux, located in southwestern France, is one of the most influential wine regions in the world. With a winemaking history stretching back over 2,000 years, Bordeaux has shaped global wine culture through its complex blends, iconic estates, and pioneering classification systems. From the Left Bank’s regal cabernet sauvignons to the Right Bank’s plush merlots and the sweet nectars of Sauternes, Bordeaux represents a vast and varied vinous tapestry. Its wines are expressions of geography, climate, and human artistry.

The Romans were the first to plant vineyards in Bordeaux during the 1st century AD. By the
Middle Ages, Bordeaux wines were already being exported, particularly to England after the 1152 marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry Plantagenet, the future King Henry II of
England. This political union sparked centuries of commercial ties between Bordeaux and the British market, fostering the international reputation of “claret”—the term the English used for the region’s red wines.

In the centuries that followed, Bordeaux’s fortunes ebbed and flowed with wars, plagues, and trade dynamics. Yet it was in the 17th and 18th centuries that the groundwork for modern Bordeaux was laid. Drainage of the Médoc marshes enabled large-scale viticulture on what would become the Left Bank’s most celebrated terroirs. The 1855 Classification, organized for the Paris Exposition under Napoleon III, further cemented Bordeaux’s prestige by ranking the top châteaux according to price and reputation—a system still largely in place today.

Bordeaux is situated near the Atlantic coast, with the city of Bordeaux serving as the
commercial hub of the region. The region’s geography is shaped by the Garonne and
Dordogne rivers, which converge to form the Gironde estuary. These rivers not only influence the local microclimates but also divide Bordeaux into its famed Left Bank and Right Bank subregions.

The climate is maritime, with moderate temperatures, ample rainfall, and a relatively long
growing season. This enables the cultivation of both red and white grape varieties. However, the humidity also poses risks, particularly for diseases like mildew and rot. In the case of sweet wine production, however, the same humidity plays a vital role in encouraging Botrytis cinerea (noble rot), which concentrates sugars and flavors in the grapes.

Bordeaux’s wine classification is highly structured, with over 60 appellations under the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) system. The region is broadly divided into several key subregions:

•  Médoc (Left Bank): Home to iconic appellations such as Pauillac, Margaux, Saint-
  Julien, and Saint-Estèphe. The soils here are gravelly, offering excellent drainage and
  heat retention, ideal for cabernet sauvignon. The Médoc is synonymous with power,
  structure, and age-worthy reds.
•  Graves and Pessac-Léognan (Left Bank): South of the city of Bordeaux, this area
  produces both red and white wines. Graves is known for its gravelly soil, while
  Pessac-Léognan, a subregion of Graves, contains prestigious estates like Château
  Haut-Brion.
• Libournais (Right Bank): This includes Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. The soils here are clay-rich, favoring merlot and cabernet franc.Wines from this area tend to be softer, more fruit-forward, and approachable earlier than those of the Left Bank.
• Entre-Deux-Mers: Situated between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, this region mainly produces white wines from sauvignon blanc, sémillon, and muscadelle.
• Sauternes and Barsac: Located in the southern part of Graves, these appellations produce the world’s most famous sweet wines. Fog from the Ciron and Garonne rivers fosters the growth of noble rot, which shrivels the grapes and concentrates their sugars.

One of Bordeaux’s defining characteristics is its reliance on blending. Few wines are made
from a single grape variety. This practice enhances complexity and helps vintners mitigate the effects of vintage variability.

Red grapes:

• Cabernet Sauvignon: Dominant in the Left Bank, it offers structure, tannin, and aging
  potential.
• Merlot: More prevalent in the Right Bank, it brings softness, fruit, and
  approachability.
•  Cabernet Franc: Adds aromatic lift and finesse.
• Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménère: Used in smaller proportions, these grapes
  contribute colour, spice, and complexity.

White grapes:

• Sauvignon Blanc: Brings acidity and citrus flavours.
• Sémillon: Adds body and richness, especially in sweet wines.
• Muscadelle: A minor grape that adds aromatic lift.

Bordeaux is also unique in that it employs multiple classification systems, reflecting the
historical and stylistic complexity of the region:

• 855 Médoc Classification: A ranking of 61 châteaux from First to Fifth Growths
  (crus), based primarily on reputation and market price. Château Haut-Brion (from
  Graves) was also included, though outside the Médoc.
• Graves Classification (1953/59): Separate rankings for red and white wines.
• Saint-Émilion Classification (1955, revised periodically): A hierarchical system with
  Premier Grand Cru Classé A and B, and Grand Cru Classé tiers. It is re-evaluated
  approximately every 10 years.
•  Cru Bourgeois: A merit-based classification of Médoc estates not included in the 1855 list.
• Pomerol: Notably, Pomerol has no official classification, yet includes some of the
  most prestigious and expensive wines in Bordeaux, such as Château Pétrus.

The wines of Bordeaux are a world unto themselves, embodying centuries of tradition, a profound sense of place, and a commitment to excellence. From the gravel terraces of Pauillac to the clay slopes of Pomerol and the misty vineyards of Sauternes, each bottle tells a story of its origin. So, whether a grand cru classé or a humble everyday blend, Bordeaux wines remain a benchmark of quality and complexity, offering something for every palate and every occasion. Santé!

About the Author

H L Marsay grew up binge-reading detective stories and promised herself that some day, she would write one too. A Long Shadow was the first book in her Chief Inspector Shadow series set in York. Luckily, living in a city so full of history, dark corners and hidden snickelways, she is never short of inspiration. She has also written The Secrets of Hartwell Trilogy and The Lady in Blue Mysteries. The Chief Inspector Shadow Mysteries have recently been optioned for television.

When she isn’t coming up with new ways to bump people off, she enjoys drinking red wine, eating dark chocolate and reading Agatha Christie – preferably at the same time!